Ph.Doctor Beauty Blog
Oily and sensitive skin syndrome
Sensitive oily skin (OS) is a complex of oily and sensitive skin. OS skin can be divided into four types: acne, rosacea, burning and allergy. Enlarged pores, acne or seborrheic dermatitis are elements of oily skin. In the case of sensitive skin, subjective hypersensitivity to external factors (cosmetics, medications, temperature differences) causes a feeling of discomfort: tightness, burning, stinging or itching. The rosacea subtype is characterized by recurrent redness and a feeling of heat, often accompanied by inflammatory nodules and telangiectasia. There is also an allergic subtype of the skin in which we have features of contact urticaria. There is a wheal and redness in response to fragrances and preservatives. The cause of OS syndrome is excessive "washing of oily skin" with strongly foaming agents, too frequent and thick peelings - this ultimately disrupts the composition of the skin's lipids and damages the lipid barrier. Sebum plays a major role in skin hydration, and also guards the integrity of the skin barrier. Therefore, too aggressive an approach to the skin, disruption of the lipid barrier can lead to the development of oily sensitive skin (OS). Care for oily sensitive skin must be approached with caution, it is very important to maintain a balance between gentle removal and secretion of excess sebum.
OS Skin Care Plan
Ph.Doctor Gentle Facial Cleansing Emulsion - wash your face and neck twice a day for at least 1 minute. In the evening, remove your make-up with your favorite product and then use our cleansing emulsion.
Tetra C Serum Ph. Doctor - use one drop in the morning and evening right after washing your face.
Lipid face cream Ph.Doctor - use after the Ph.Doctor serum has been absorbed.
Remember about photoprotection in the morning - a cream with SPF 50 UVA/UVB filter is mandatory for oily skin - choose light emulsions, without alcohol.
We recommend that in case of enlarged pores and overproduction of sebum, a product with retinoids be included in your evening care. Choose FACE & BODY RetinALL 0.05% and if you are just starting out, proceed as follows: for 2 weeks, use RetinALL 2 times a week, for the next 3 weeks 3 times a week, for the next 4 weeks 4 times a week, for the next 5 weeks 5 times a week.
FACE & BODY RetinALL Cream with a stable form of retinal 0.05%
289.00 PLN
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https://phdoctorlab.pl/blogs/base-of-knowledge/ctory-produkt-wybrac-krem-do-za-stable-forma-retinalu-retinall-in-one-0-1-czy-krem-ze-stable-forma-retinalu-face-body-retinall-0-05
Once you have built up a tolerance to retinal, which usually takes at least 2-3 months, you can think about adding Lactic Acid 12% Face and Body Peeling to your evening care routine - in an alternating pattern, on the day of acid application do not use retinoids. 1-2 times a week apply acid to washed, dried facial skin according to the following scheme: 1 week 3 minutes, 2 week 5 minutes, 3 week 10 minutes, 4 week 15 minutes (this is the maximum time).
You can use the entire Ph. Doctor cosmetic line with the OS syndrome. If you have allergic, atopic skin, perform an allergy test. Ph. Doctor products have been tested on people with dry, atopy-prone, sensitive skin (tested consumer group). You can eliminate dilated blood vessels on the skin of the face in aesthetic medicine clinics with a laser, after consulting a dermatologist. Often, dilated blood vessels on the face are the first phase of rosacea. Also pay attention to lumps, pimples and the lack of blackheads - here the doctor will probably recommend treatment including prescription preparations. Then, in your care, you can use an over-the-counter preparation with azelaic acid 15 or 20% (you can buy it in a pharmacy without a prescription, it is also safe during pregnancy and for nursing mothers).
In the PubMed database we can find publications which show that retinal (retinaldehyde) has a beneficial effect on the vascular component of rosacea (erythema and telangiectasia) https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/10473962/ .
Fun fact :
- it is reported that the average sebum production in healthy adults is approximately 1 mg/ 10 cm2 every 3 hours,
-if the rate drops to <0.5 mg/ 10 cm2 per 3 hours, dry skin may occur,
-if sebum production exceeds 1.5 mg/ 10 cm2 every 3 hours, it causes oily skin or seborrhea.
https://phdoctorlab.pl/blogs/baza-wiedzy/proba-uczuleniowa-jak-wykonac
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How to properly cleanse facial skin?
The foundation of healthy facial skin is its proper, regular and gentle cleansing. Facial skin is exposed to a number of harmful factors every day - impurities are constantly deposited on its surface. By giving up washing it, you increase the risk of the skin condition getting worse, or even acne.
Cleanse your facial skin in the morning and evening.In the morning, we recommend starting your skincare routine with the Gentle Face Washing Emulsion from Ph.Doctor - designed for all skin types, for people with imperfections (acne, seborrhea, erythema, skin undergoing dermatological treatment). The mild composition leaves a feeling of comfort after each wash. Additionally, the algal oligosaccharides contained have a proven cleansing effect from environmental pollution (anti-smog properties).Example morning care with Ph.Doctor:1) Ph.Doctor Gentle Facial Washing Emulsion - apply one pump of the emulsion to dry face and neck skin and then wash your face for at least one minute.2) Tetra C serum with Ph.Doctor - apply one drop of Tetra C serum to cleansed and dried facial skin.3) Light & Bright Eye Cream multi shot 23% - apply a small amount of cream, gently tapping it into the skin around the eyes with your fingertips until the product is completely absorbed. 4) Ph.Doctor Lipid Face Cream - apply a pea-sized amount of lipid cream (you can skip this step in your morning care routine).5) SUNSET AR Daytime Face Cream with SPF 50+ - apply the cream in an amount corresponding to the length of two fingers. We also offer SUNSET SPORT SPF 50 for year-round use, including by athletes and people active in the fresh air. Apply the cream in the amount of at least one pump to the face.In the evening, we recommend a two-step facial cleansing. Remember, when going to bed with full make-up or improperly washed off cream with UV filter, the skin is much more susceptible to aging processes, exacerbation of skin lesions - the lipid barrier is damaged, which is the key to healthy facial skin. In the evening, you should start with Osmogel Precleanser - it is an osmotic gel based on water of the highest purity subjected to a two-step reverse osmosis process. Removes make-up and UV filters. Dedicated to all skin types, including sensitive skin. The product is suitable for people wearing contact lenses.Attention, remember! If there is a cream with a UV filter on the face or makeup is not enough Gentle face wash emulsion - it must be preceded by Osmogel Precleanser!Example evening skincare routine with Ph.Doctor:1) Osmogel Precleanser - apply a small amount of the product to dry facial skin, perform a gentle massage or apply the product to a damp cotton pad, hold it on the skin for a few seconds, then gently wipe to remove makeup. Rinse your face with lukewarm water.2) Ph.Doctor Gentle Facial Washing Emulsion - apply one pump of the emulsion to dry face and neck skin and then wash your face for at least one minute. 3) Tetra C serum with Ph.Doctor - apply one drop of Tetra C serum to cleansed and dried facial skin.4) Light & Bright Eye Cream multi shot 23% - apply a small amount of cream, gently tapping it into the skin around the eyes with your fingertips until the product is completely absorbed.5) Ph.Doctor Lipid Face Cream - apply a pea-sized amount of lipid cream after absorption.In evening care, we also recommend a product with retinal - retinaldehyde is a biologically active derivative of vitamin A. It belongs to the retinoid family, the best documented substances that slow down skin aging. Check here: https://phdoctorlab.pl/blogs/ knowledge-base/which-product- choose ac-face-cream-with- stable-form-of-retinal- retinall-in- one-0-1-or-cream- a-stable-form-of-retinal- face-body- retinall-0-05
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Photoprotection, what you need to know.
Photoprotection is a general term that refers to actions taken to protect the skin from the harmful effects of sunlight, especially ultraviolet (UV) radiation. It is key to preventing skin damage such as sunburn, photoaging, and the risk of developing skin cancer. According to experts, 80% of facial skin aging is caused by sun exposure!
The negative effects of sunlight on the skin are:
-thickening and keratinization, the skin becomes noticeably rough,
- discolorations, lentigo spots,
- degradation of collagen and elastin, loss of skin firmness and elasticity,
- solar elastosis*,
- persistence of redness, exacerbation of rosacea symptoms,
- acne exacerbation - the sun intensifies inflammation and proliferation of Cutibacterium acnes bacteria,
- pre-cancerous conditions, skin cancers.
* solar elastosis, which most often appears on the face, neck, décolleté, hands and forearms - it consists of the degeneration of elastin fibres in the skin, which causes it to lose its elasticity and firmness, becomes thicker and rough to the touch, and lumps and folds may also appear.
UV, which comes up when we talk about radiation and the effects of the sun on the skin, means ultraviolet. Although ultraviolet (UV) radiation makes up only 10% of the solar emission that reaches the Earth, it is by far the most dangerous to the skin. There are three types: UVA, UVB and UVC - we will focus on the first two.
What is UVA radiation - effect on the skin?
UVA constitutes almost 95% of ultraviolet radiation and is referred to as long-wave radiation. It reaches the deepest – perhaps even to the dermis and even subcutaneous tissue. It is responsible for premature skin aging, causing wrinkles, discoloration, degradation of collagen and elastin fibers, and thus loss of elasticity and roughness of the skin. Long and frequent exposure to UVA radiation also increases the risk of skin cancer. It is present all year round, so both our skin and eyes should be properly protected regardless of the season.
What is UVB radiation - effect on the skin?
Although it constitutes only 5% of the radiation reaching the Earth's surface, it has a very strong impact on our skin and health. It is UVB that is responsible for the formation of redness. It is worth mentioning that the effect of its action is a tan - a natural defensive reaction to the sun, and in the case of unwise exposure, burns.
Photoprotection consists of three inextricably linked elements:
– avoid excessive exposure to UVR, especially between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m.,
– use of protective clothing, including appropriate headgear and sunglasses,
– correct application of preparations containing UVA/UVB filters.
Here are some steps to consider when applying SPF:
* Choose the right SPF formula : Choose an SPF product with properties that are right for your skin type. These can be creams, gels, lotions. If you have acne-prone skin, avoid products that can clog pores. SPF makeup products should not be your only photoprotective product.
* Apply the right amount : To get full protection, apply enough SPF to your skin. The recommended amount is about 2 milliliters per square centimeter of skin. Don't skimp on the amount, as this can affect the effectiveness of your protection.
* Use before sun exposure : Apply SPF to the skin before going out in the sun, ideally about 15-30 minutes before the planned exposure time. This will open a uniform film on the skin and provide optimal protection.
* Reapply : Reapply SPF every 2 hours or more often, especially if you swim, sweat heavily, or towel dry. Regularly reapplying SPF helps maintain effective protection.
* Use all over your body : Don't forget easily overlooked areas like your ears, neck, hands, feet and the area around your eyes. These areas are just as vulnerable to harmful UV rays.
* Include UV protection makeup in addition to sunscreen : If you wear makeup, consider using a foundation or powder with added SPF to further protect your skin.
* Store in proper conditions : Check the expiration date of the product and store it according to the manufacturer's recommendations. Avoid extreme temperatures, which can affect the effectiveness of SPF.
Remember that regular SPF application is crucial not only in summer but all year round, as UV radiation is present even on cloudy days. Sun protection is important for healthy skin and to prevent premature aging and other skin problems.
SUNSET AR Day Face Cream with SPF 50+
149.00 PLN
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Our offer includes two products: SUNSET AR Day face cream with SPF 50+ and SUNSET SPORT SPF 50+ . Cream SPF 50+ AR is designed for all skin types, especially recommended for people with vascular skin and a tendency to redness - for year-round use. Use in an amount corresponding to the length of two fingers (middle and index). Cream SUNSET SPORT SPF 50 + is also suitable for all skin types - for year-round use, including by athletes and people active in the fresh air (cycling, playing volleyball or mountain expeditions). Use at least 1 pump on the skin of the face.
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Skin discoloration - prevention and effective ways to reduce it
What for discoloration?
Hyperpigmentation is a general term that encompasses various skin discoloration, pigmentation, and darkening disorders. These changes can be the result of various internal and external factors, such as hormonal changes, inflammation, trauma, acne, eczema, certain medications, and exposure to UV radiation.Hyperpigmentation skin disorders are generally a consequence of overproduction of melanin, which is unevenly distributed.
The most commonly observed hyperpigmentation disorders include: chloasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and lentigines.
Chloasma (melasma) is the most common skin discoloration of the face. Spots appear on exposed areas, mainly on the face and neck, usually in women. They are irregular in shape, symmetrically distributed and are often associated with hormonal changes, e.g. during pregnancy or when using contraception. Note: Avoid high temperatures and protect yourself from blue light (HEV)
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) - discoloured lesions occur at the site of pre-existing acute or chronic inflammatory lesions and after trauma. Note: If you have a darker complexion, choose a cream with an SPF that also protects against blue light (HEV).
Lentigo (often called "age spots" or "sun spots") are dark skin lesions that appear as a result of sun exposure.
How to prevent discoloration?
The basis of the procedure is the consistent use of preparations that protect against UVA and UVB light - cream with a filter of at least SPF50 SUNSET AR Day face cream with a filter , SPF 50+ SUNSET SPORT SPF 50+
It is also necessary to strictly avoid sun exposure.
Avoid squeezing or scratching acne lesions – take care of the skin’s lipid barrier and avoid aggressive skin care.
Be careful with phototoxic substances, such as perfumes or oils, they can causediscoloration. (Berloque dermatitis is a local phototoxic dermatitis).
SUNSET AR Day Face Cream with SPF 50+
149.00 PLN
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How to effectively combat discoloration?
Facial skin care
RetinALL IN ONE Face cream with a stable form of retinal 0.1% by Inti Skin
Retinal, a derivative of vitamin A, reduces discoloration through mechanisms such as regulation of cell division, differentiation and anti-inflammatory effects.
Our RetinALL IN ONE Stable Retinal Face Cream 0.1% is enriched with Tranexamic Acid and Diglucosylgallic Acid. These substances inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, a key enzyme in the melanogenesis process (melanin production). Additionally, both acids have anti-inflammatory effects, which contribute to the reduction of post-inflammatory discolorations. They also help improve the overall skin tone, reducing the visibility of discolorations and contributing to its brightening.
Once you have developed tolerance, apply daily in the evening.
If you have sensitive skin, start with FACE&BODY RetinALL 0.05% to reduce the risk of irritation and build tolerance.
After 12 weeks of regular use and achieving facial skin tolerance to FACE&BODY RetinALL 0.05%, you can move on to a higher concentration of retinal – RetinALL IN ONE Face cream with a stable form of retinal 0.1%.
In the morning, use a sunscreen with SPF 50 or higher!
FACE & BODY RetinALL Cream with a stable form of retinal 0.05%
289.00 PLN
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Tetra C serum
It prevents the appearance of new discolorations by blocking the enzyme responsible for the production of the pigment – tyrosinase. It is therefore a so-called tyrosinase inhibitor. It works on the initial stage of melanogenesis.
Use one drop in the morning and evening.
In the morning, use a sunscreen with SPF 50 or higher!
Azelaic acid 15% or 20%
It affects skin discolorations by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase, which is key in the process of melanogenesis – the synthesis of melanin, responsible for skin pigmentation.
To start with: If you’re new to this, start with 2-3 times a week to see how your skin reacts. A gradual introduction reduces the risk of irritation, such as redness or a slight stinging sensation.
Gradual increase: If the skin tolerates the product well, you can gradually increase the frequency to daily use – once or twice a day (morning and evening).
In the morning, use a sunscreen with SPF 50 or higher!
Body care
FACE & BODY RetinALL Cream with a stable form of retinal 0.05%
https://phdoctorlab.pl/blogs/base-of-knowledge/how-to-use-cream-with-a-stable-form-of-retinal-face-body-retinall-0-05-for-the-body-and-fresh-steps-first-steps
When using in the summer, we recommend using a cream with SPF50 or higher during the day.
Lifting cream for elbows and knees with glycolic acid
Apply to clean, completely dry skin in evening care. Due to the low pH of the product, a slight stinging may occur upon application. When using in the summer, we recommend using a cream with a protective filter SPF50 or higher during the day. Use on days without retinal.
Tetra C serum
Use twice daily on the skin of the neck and nape of the neck.
There are also professional office treatments available to support the process of removing discoloration, such as lasers, radiofrequency, or chemical peels. Prevention, well-chosen care, and possibly an individual treatment plan will allow you to achieve the intended effects.
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/33998768/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/33151621/
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